Tuesday, July 17, 2007

Wal-Mart, eating dog, skin tone, my own room and other personal rantings

Feeling much better today as opposed to yesterday when I felt like I had the beginnings of consumption. I went for a walk last night in a big circle around Wal-Mart thinking, “I'll walk around a big block,” conveniently forgetting Chinese cities are not exactly designed in “blocks” but in ring roads. I was walking near the ... interstate. Highway, I guess.



Then I went into Wal-Mart to take some photos. It's about 3 blocks from the flat. The grocery stores are actually remarkably similar to home but with way more meat and way less packaging. Also, there are fewer conveyor belts at checkout lines. Also, they looked at me as though I had a third eye when I tried to pay with a credit card last week. The cashier had to run over to customer service to run it through because I was 30 kuai short in cash and didn't have the language skills to tell her to just take some things off the bill. But, generally, I only take photos of things that stand out to me, not things that are familiar.

Phone booths everywhere that don't take coins. I think you have to buy a card from a street vendor.


Well then.


Dried eels? Dried fish? I'm not sure, but they had little beady eyes.


Meaty.


The rumors are true: they do eat dog. It's on a lot of menus. The only pet dogs I've seen are very small, annoying and not meaty but that might be a function of being in the city. I don't really find this any more disturbing than eating regular meat, though... they are all animals, what's the difference? It's so much more likely that a dog will kill you than a cow!

I was reading yesterday about the strange crossroads that desirable skin tone is at in Shanghai. Westerners go to tanning salons and Chinese women carry umbrellas to stay white, though some teenagers are starting to tan. The lengths to stay white go beyond the umbrellas, though, as some people even buy skin bleaching products. Then today, I saw a woman with extremely white skin today on the way to work, I think she bleached it. It was kind of freaky—in the same way it is freaky when you see the orange cats who've obviously used self-tanner spray, or the ones who are baked after the tanning bed. Either way, gross!

The “older” woman moved out of the flat and into the Sheraton Hotel nearby. I think she didn’t like the noise of Michelle and Reagan coming in at 5am/felt awkward about living there in the first place. Nothing like paying twice for your residence... weird. So, I’ve moved into her room and now we've all got our own. It was so roomy and not-wakey up last night/this morning. Listening to the utter vapidness of the conversation last night makes me wonder... one snippet: "I wouldn't mind getting herpes. It isn't THAT bad. I mean, it doesn't kill you or anything." Then they watched an hour's worth of Lisa Lampanelli, the vulgar comic, on youtube followed by Perez Hilton's appearance on The View.

I feel like such a blob sitting at a computer all day, trying to think of things to fill the time. I write my articles and then I am done.. it was the same way when I was writing papers. The thing that has been challenging for me in terms of the writing is to not make it too academic, especially when I was writing the review for a book on Chiang Kai-shek’s wife. Also, the length of the pieces...in academic writing, my goal was to write for as long as possible on some minor detail that no one would really care about to fill the space. The magazine is the exact opposite as there is limited space for what you want to write. Speaking of which, I knew my antiquated style of hittng the space bar twice after a period would come back to haunt me, and it has here by using up another precious character subconsciously.

Today it's back up to 93 after some reprieve last week. Today I finally figured out how the coins work. There's a half yuan piece and 1/10 yuan pieces. The subway was super crowded. Found an English channel on the television. I watched the news last night and found out about the Chinese ban on American poultry due to traces of salmonella found on chicken-- ha ha, such an obvious political move in the face of America's ban on Chinese fish imports which I think of itself was politically based anyway. Michelle's father is in the meat business and she told me all raw chicken has salmonella. No idea.

Finally, a photo into a lane. I thought I was being smooth by not looking when I took it but the little boy obviously sees me. Oh, well.

Monday, July 16, 2007

Getting sick, better and not getting lost

I spent the majority of this weekend hiding in the flat and reading with occasional forays onto the porch in an effort to not get really sick. I bought some medicine at the store using supreme guesswork which actually seems to be pretty good.

Hiding worked till Saturday night when I found out about 20 Westerners were going to a lounge on the Bund. The Bund is a busy nighttime strip across the river from Pudong with a lot of danceclubs and neon lights and whatnot. I thought I should give it a try and not write them off as doing what I thought they were doing. It was actually more chill than I anticipated, I was encouraged by free drinks for women. I had red, then I had blue. It was a hookah bar (very good for cold) with live salsa music in Chinese followed by the skinniest belly dancer I've ever seen-- you could see her organs when she moved. I left while everyone was playing dice, somehow under the guise of "I don't gamble" despite the fact they weren't gambling. My flatmates were out till 6am as they all went to a dance club afterwards... definitely not my bag.

Dancers to salsa:


In the cab, Attn drunks-going-home:


There was only a slight panic in the evening when I realized I had neither my map ("I can walk") or my phrasebook ("I can ask directions") because I had switched purses.

The Office, as viewed from my half-cube on 3 1/2 /F:

Friday, July 13, 2007

You probably didn't know this about me

Last night, I suffered a massive nosebleed. Though not nearly as epic as the Hotel Bleed of '97, this one started gushing like a fountain as soon as I got out of the shower, sufficiently disgusting my roommate. I blame the pollution as opposed to my somewhat chronic history of head orifice bleeding.

Pollution may also be to blame for my current affliction: a cold. I hesitantly/secretly/embarrassingly pride myself on being able to pinpoint the near exact moment I allowed the offending virus into my body. In this case, it was one of the following four times:

1. Last week, roommate Michelle was sick for two days. Number of surfaces we both touch in the apartment is high being that we share a bathroom.
2. Two days ago, I held onto a pole on the metro in many different positions (for me), then touched my nose.
3. Also two days ago, on a different metro ride, it was very crowded and one man coughed directly into my breathing area. I didn't hold my breath because I figured the germs had already hit my lips.
4. Co-worker Maggie told me yesterday that many foreigners get sick from the pollution in Shanghai.

Speaking of Maggie, we went out to dinner last night to a restaurant near the Jing 'an Temple metro stop (our stop for work). It was nice and I love making local friends as opposed to Western friends! She is taking the TOEFL this weekend and wants to go to grad school in Canada then remain there permanently. She's very friendly to me and that makes me happy and surprised.

Plus, one mystery solved: Sidewalks of Pain are guiding lanes for blind people! I haven't noticed a lot of blind people but maybe that's just because they're not carrying canes. I've also stopped thinking everyone I see is single just because they're not wearing wedding rings.

Today, I'm interviewing an American-Chinese chef for the "Culinary Comforts" section of the magazine. This weekend, I get to review a book that one of Josh Kilmer-Purcell's friends wrote... such a circular group of memoirists!

Funny aside: here, "comrade" is now slang for gay.

Thursday, July 12, 2007

Commuting and the arts

Commuting in Shanghai is like being part of a school of fish. If you're watching from afar or see them on the Discovery Channel, you think they're not touching each other and all move as one but in reality, the new foreign ones are thinking, "I can smell five different people's sweat and see the pores on this guy's neck really well and something is touching my ass. I hope it's a bag and not a hand."



Actually, I feel I'm well in the swing of commuting and walking in the traffic now. It's much more dangerous than New York because there are so many more types of transportation on the street! Autos, motorbikes, motorcycles, bikes, buses, electric trolley buses and walkers.



Last night I went to a film showing of a French film with Spanish subtitles shown by a Japanese artist in her studio/living space. Now I feel a bit more at home, as I was the only one who showed up--typical. We didn't bother watching the film but I had a nice chat with the artist and her friend, who was also Japanese/a print designer. We talked about the differences between Japanese and Chinese society, the art and music scene in Shanghai and the Cultural Revolution and its effect on art in China. She runs a teahouse/meeting place there during the day so maybe I will go back sometime.

On the way there, I found an abandoned building. It was only closed with wire gates so it was easy to take a photo.


There was an ad for a record store at the Shanxi Rd metro station. They gave equal prominence to Bumble Bee Slim and Tampa Red as to Zeppelin and the Stones! Smart.


Early into this morning's Baby Convention outside the flat. Most of the adults are grandparents. Families seem to be much closer here as I see almost solely grandparents taking care of kids during the day. The lense was foggy from the sudden change from the AC to outside:

Wednesday, July 11, 2007

Who wants cigarettes?

A pack of cigs here is about 6.50Y... $0.95. No tax.

Every day on my walk to work, I go by a couple of Buddhist monks walking the other direction. They're always in their robes and have their heads shaved in the certain way.

On the subway, there are flat screen TVs which display advertisements and the latest push towards physical fitness-- ballroom dancing. All the children must do it in school and apparently they are also encouraging the adults by showing demonstrations both on the metro and on the platforms.

Frustrated by your inability to determine the sex of a baby? Fear not and come to China, where children under age 1 get specific haircuts based on their gender. Boys receive a circle on the front of their heads while girls' is at the back. Creates a bit of a funny effect!

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

Images from yesterday:



This is how the drinking water arrives


Fish for sale outside a lane store


The watermelons here are quite small, like big melons, but the cucumbers are GIGANTIC


Today, walking through the lane, I saw a woman emptying a chamber pot into the public bathroom. There are public WCs on many corners and the ones in the lanes are often utilized that way.

Walkin' down the street mid-afternoon, pre-rush hour

Monday, July 9, 2007

I've got quite a lot to say about recent impressions but don't want to risk getting in trouble, so I won't now. I've become a bit paranoid and also slightly hypochondriac. Current ailments include: scoliosis, heat rash, germy hands.



Classified ad in City Weekend:
Need a big strong black guy to attend 7.19 to 7.23 (4 days) Chinajoy videogames expo (one of the biggest video games expo in the world) in shanghai. We want bring audience an exotic feeling on exhibition. So wat u will do is just show ur cool face there to look like a killer. Contact Emily: 1363 661 5407.



NO TRUMPETS





I went to the Shanghai Zendai MOMA then the Shanghai Sex Museum on Saturday. The MOMA was more subversive than I thought they would be allowed to be and the sex museum was hilarious. And intersting. There was an aquarium attached, so I went to that too. The sex museum had signs in English but the aquarium did not.

"...the widows who were not able to remarry always needed it"


"He was not able to keep this part of his body under control":


Caught in 1834, still bummed:


The Epic Battle of the Tiny Ships Versus The Giant Crabs:




More photos




On, a personal note, I think I'm one day closer to death with the travel than I would have been otherwise because of the 12 hours I lost coming here-- I'm continuing westward and so never gain them back.

Our final new person in the flat arrived yesterday. She is older, and from the UK. I'm quite glad she is not another 18-20 year old. Michelle and Reagan found her ancient but I am relieved as her goals for the trip are probably not for this to be a prolonged vacation as it seems to be for the other two. Though she is a bit strange and dragged the land telephone into her room within 2 seconds of arriving.

My speaking voice is a strange mix suddenly. Michelle is from Chicago so we speak nasal midwestern to each other but Reagan is from Kitchener, so I slip into the Canadian accent with him quite easily and not on purpose. My boss is Australian and I know a couple of Brits so my English vocabulary is upped.

I went to the Lotus Supermarket again yesterday and they were playing the Jackson 5 amongst all the various activities in the front.

I am a bit troubled by the Chinese insinuations that everything Western is superior. Consumerism is spreading rapidly here and there is loads of crap to buy in the streets and even more in secret warehouses if you follow the hawkers. Oh, THINGS and STUFF, I am a bit more of a hippie than I originally thought. The average Chinese income in 2004 was $2950; I feel very rich here, so I guess it is easy to preach from where I stand. I think it is quite a bit more difficult to jump classes here.